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Installing Wood Shingles as Siding

Wood shingles and shakes are not just for roofs alone - they also make an attractive siding material for many house styles. Although you can buy traditional and fancy-cut wood shingles made especially for siding, it's okay to cover walls with roof shingles and shakes as well. But because weathering on siding is not as severe, you can save by using a lower grade of roof shingle.
Shakes are machine- or hand-split from blocks of wood called bolts. They're thicker than shingles and less uniform along the exposed edges, but they last longer. Wood shingles are sawed smooth. Both types come from woods like western red cedar and redwood, and are available with a fire-retardant treatment. It's wise to allow an extra 10 percent for waste.
Installing Shingles
PROJECT BASICS
  • Project: Moderate
  • Estimated Project Time: Depends on size and features of house, and on level of skill
  • Start Tips: Use a story pole to determine the distance between courses.sters.
  • Safety Tips: Before climbing a ladder, always check that its feet are level, and that the ladder is placed about one foot away from the wall for every four feet of actual ladder height.
  • Recommendation: Do-it-Yourself
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Story pole Sliding T-bevel
Measuring tape Plumb bob
Pencil, paper, calculator Utility knife
4-ft. level Work gloves
Extension ladder Block plane
Chalk-line box, or string and line level Corner boards, as needed
Wood shingles (or shakes) Edge molding
Hammer Primer, paint or stain, and paint applicators, as needed
Galvanized nails
1x4 ledger board
INSTRUCTIONS
Choosing an exposure
The amount of the shingle surface exposed to the weather is called the exposure. Manufacturers should specify the allowable exposure, since it varies depending on the material. But as a general guideline, calculate the maximum exposure by subtracting 1/2 inch from half the overall length of the shingle. You can reduce the exposure for looks and greater weather protection, but remember that smaller exposures use more shingles. A typical exposure requires about four bundles of shingles per 100 square feet of wall area.
Planning the courses
The goal is to install the siding in such a way that the bottom edge of a course is even with the bottom edge of the windowsills. You'll need to determine the place in which the butt line (bottom edge) of courses intersects the tops and sills of windows. Also, make sure there will be a 4-inch (or greater) course of shingles beneath the eaves.
To do this, use a piece of 1x4 to create a story pole. If the house is one story, the length of the pole will be a few inches longer than the distance from one inch below the top edge of the foundation to the bottom of the fascia or frieze. If the house is two or more stories, make the pole a few inches longer than the distance from the top of the foundation to the bottom of a second-story windowsill.
Measure the distance between the foundation and the first-story windowsill, allowing an extra inch where the siding overlaps the top of the foundation. Divide this distance into portions that are as equal as possible to the exposure you have chosen. Mark the story pole in sections equal to the distance between each course.
To check the courses, hold the stick so that one of the marks is even with the bottom of the windowsill. Double-check the point at which the course mark strikes the foundation. If the house has an upper story, use the story pole to check alignment.
Choose Courses and Draw MarkingsFig. 1
Walk around the house checking the courses and how they will align with the windows, doors and trim. Transfer the marks on the pole to the most public corner of the house (Fig. 1).
Installing wood shingles
 Below are guidelines on how to install wood shingles. Before you begin, you may want to add insulation and/or building wrap to the walls. If you are residing, check if repairs should be done before the shingles are installed, such as replacing rotting windowsills.
Install Starter ShinglesFig. 2
1) Install the starter shingles
 Build up the first course with starter shingles. Snap a chalk line, or string a level line as a leveling guide. Space shingles 1/8 to 1/4 in. apart. Drive galvanized nails about 3/4 in. from shingle edges and 1 inch above the butt line. (Fig. 2)
Install First CourseFig. 3
2) Install the first course
The first course completely covers the starter course. Select shingles by width to cover all joints, overlapping gaps by at least 1-1/2 inches. (Fig. 3)
Again, drive galvanized nails about 3/4 in. from shingle edges and 1 in. above weather exposure. (Fig. 4)
drive galvanized nails Fig. 4
Snap a Chalk Line Fig. 5
3) Snap a chalk line
 Mark the weather exposure at the middle and ends of each finished course; then snap a chalk line to guide your row. (Fig. 5)
Attach Guide BoardFig. 6
4) Attach a guide board
 To keep the courses level and make the installation easier, install a temporary guide board leveled across the wall. (Fig. 6)
Using Hand Block PaneFig. 7
5) Stagger seams
 Use a hand block plane to dress shingle edges for fit. Stagger seams so they don't line up course to course. (Fig. 7)
Shingles Corner - MiteringFig. 8
6) Shingle corners
At corners, you can butt shingles together, or weave them against trim. Mitering looks good, but it's time consuming and doesn't weather well (Fig. 8). Woven corners offer better protection but require cutting and fitting (Fig. 9). Butted corners offer the most protection (Figs. 10 and 11).
Shingles Corner - Woven Fig. 9
Shingles Corner - Butted Corners InsideFig. 10
Shingles Corner - Butted Corners OutsideFig. 11
7) Finishing
It is important to protect the new wood with primer and paint or stain. Make sure the surface is clean and dry before starting.

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