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Building a Basic Board Fence
Building a fence requires only basic carpentry skills and hand tools, though a circular saw, a power miter saw, and a power drill/driver will speed your work. If you're building the fence yourself, choose a design suited to your skills. Also recruit help to dig the postholes, plumb and brace the posts, and install rails or fence sections.
A hand-operated posthole digger, which may be rented, is usually adequate for digging postholes (a shovel will make too wide a hole). If you have many holes to dig, consider renting a power auger. This heavy, corkscrew-like digging machine will drill a perfectly round hole in about a minute. However, if the auger hits a large rock or tree root, the kickback can cause serious leg bruises or worse, so avoid using one in rocky soil or around large trees.
Use only fasteners rated for exterior use since rust causes ugly stains, loose joints, and eventually complete failure. Hot-dipped galvanized nails are best; avoid the less durable electroplated ones. Because of their holding power, screws often are better than nails for attaching rails to posts.
PROJECT BASICS
Project: Moderate
Estimated Project Time: Several days
Start Tips: If you're installing a fence around your property, double-check the property line to avoid disputes with current or future neighbors
Safety Tips: Make sure your saw blade is sharp; never use a dull blade
Recommendation: Do-it-Yourself
TOOLS & MATERIALS
| Posthole digger or shovel |
Level |
| Paintbrush |
4x4 posts |
| Waterproof deck sealer |
2x4 rails |
| Measuring tape |
1x4 or 1x6 boards |
| Pencil |
Galvanized deck screws |
| Circular saw |
Safety goggles |
| Chisel |
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| Power drill/driver |
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Fig. 1
INSTRUCTIONS
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1) Prepare and set the posts
Coat the ends of each post with a waterproof deck sealer (Fig. 1).
Dig holes for and install the corner posts first, setting them below the frost line and on a 6-inch tamped bed of crushed rock or gravel so their end grain does not sit in water.
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Next, stretch a taut mason's line between the corner posts to help locate the intermediate holes and posts; try to space them evenly about 6 feet apart.
Gradually backfill each hole with soil and tamp every four inches. Then fill the area around the posts with a well-tamped mix of earth and gravel or with concrete for extra strength at corners and gate openings. Check for plumb.
Fig. 2 2) Mark the lower fence rail position on the posts
Establish a level for the lower rail at least a few inches above the ground and, on each post, mark placement for the top and bottom edges of the lower rail. (Fig. 2)
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3) Cut the posts to accept the lower rail
Between the marks, make several kerf cuts 1-1/2 inches deep with a circular saw. Chisel out each post to accept the rail. (Fig. 3)
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Fig. 4
4) Join the lower rails at corners
At the corners, inset intersecting rails and screw them in place (after predrilling to avoid splits) with galvanized deck screws. (Fig. 4)
Fig. 5 5) Affix an end post to the house, if necessary If your fence will meet the house, fasten an end post to your home's siding. Make sure the post is plumb; you may need to insert spacers or shims if the siding is irregular or slanted. If your fence will meet the house, fasten an end post to your home's siding. Make sure the post is plumb; you may need to insert spacers or shims if the siding is irregular or slanted. (Fig. 5)
Fig. 6
6) Adjoin the upper rails
Center the joint between upper rails in the post notches, then predrill the rails before screwing them to the posts. (Fig. 6)
Fig. 7
7) Install the pickets
Cut a 1/2-inch spacer to simplify installation of the pickets. Periodically check for plumb as you work along the rails. (Fig. 7)
8) Seal the fence
To preserve the boards and keep your fence looking new, apply a deck sealer with UV protection.
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