Hyderabadghar/Do it your self/How to Add Balusters and a Top Rail

This is a simple and economical design (Fig. 1). Yet it's suitable only for smaller railings since it lacks the posts and top cap which give lateral strength to longer railings. And since this railing has no top cap, you'll not be able to set drinks or potted plants on it.

To give this railing added strength, decrease the space between its balusters. Be aware, however, that an unbroken line of closely spaced, identical vertical balusters can give your railing a monotonous appearance.

As a construction note, it's recommended that you use screws for this project rather than nails, since screws can better stabilize the incomplete railing as you affix the balusters.

Fig. 1

PROJECT BASICS

Project: Moderate
Estimated Project Time: A day or two, depending on the length of the railing
Start Tips: Check your local building codes for the required maximum spacing between balusters.
Safety Tips: Always wear a disposable face mask in the presence of airborne sawdust.
Recommendation: Do-it-Yourself

TOOLS & MATERIALS

Hammer	2x6 Rail to length
Nails	2x2 Balusters to length, as many as needed
Screwdriver	Disposable face mask
Screws (recommended)	Power drill, and drill bits as needed
Pencil	Framing square

INSTRUCTIONS

1) Estimate your materials Estimate the length of your 2x6 top rail by measuring around the perimeter of the deck as far as you want the railing to go. Add extra for corner miter cuts and any spliced joints. If you'll be installing many balusters, it's probably not worth figuring out exactly where each one needs to be so that the first and last are equidistant from the ends. Given the fact that 2x2s vary in thickness by 1/16, your figures probably will do no good. However, here's how to calculate how many balusters you'll need: Add the width of one baluster to the space between each baluster. For instance, a 2x2 baluster (1-1/2 inches wide) spaced 4 inches from its neighbor will consume 5-1/2 inches. Divide this total figure into the length of the top rail.

2) Cut out the top rail
If your top rail is not long enough to span the entire run, avoid making butt joints — a 2x2 is not wide enough to adequately nail both butted ends. Instead, splice the ends using scarf joints, cutting the pieces at 45 degrees.

Fig. 2

3) Cut out the balusters
If you have a power miter box, construct a fixture for your saw like the one shown (Fig. 2). Make sure it's sturdy enough so that neither the stop block nor the saw can move. If you'll be cutting with a circular saw, cut one baluster to the correct length and use it as a template for the others.

Fig. 3

4) Drill baluster pilot holes
Predrilled holes may not be needed if you're using soft wood. However, pilot holes will prevent splits and make the joints stronger. Plus, if you lay several balusters side by side and drill perfectly parallel rows in them all at once, you'll save time and lend a professional, uniform look to your railing components.

Use a framing square to square up a batch of balusters at once, then draw pencil lines to align their pilot holes. (Fig. 3)

Fig. 4

5) Join the rail and balusters
Select two balusters for the left and right ends of the top rail, hold them vertically, and screw their lower ends to the deck joist or fascia. At this point, the balusters' upper ends will be unattached, so they'll be fragile.

Next, screw the top rail to the upper ends of the two balusters (Fig. 4). Then check the top rail for plumb.

To space remaining balusters evenly, cut a 2x6 spacer block to the width you chose to separate each baluster — make sure this block is square!

Using this spacer, start near an outer baluster and work across the railing. Every four balusters or so, check that the balusters are plumb and make slight spacing adjustments as necessary.