Hyderabadghar/Do it your self/Extending Electrical Power Outdoors

Extend power from your interior service entrance panel to the outside either through a basement/crawl space or a roof overhang. (Make sure electrical power is turned off first.) Exiting from a basement or crawl space, as shown below, requires mounting an LB connector or an exterior junction box on the side of your house. Any splices must be contained in a junction box, whether it is on the interior or the exterior. Run a short length of rigid-metal conduit nipple through the wall to link the interior junction box to the LB fitting. For power exiting through an eave, mount an outdoor junction box on the surface of your soffit then run rigid metal conduit from there down to a ground trench. If possible, run your conduit alongside a downspout so that it will be less conspicuous. Any outdoor cable that is run underground must be protected in rigid conduit where it enters or emerges from the trench.

Whatever your intentions are for outdoor power and lighting, it is advisable that you first plan your work; then follow certain precautions before you actually begin it. Just as with interior wiring, it is a good idea to make a diagram indicating where and how you want to locate receptacles, switches, lighting fixtures, pump and sprinkler motors, trenches, and cable runs. Your plan should also show the location of major elements like pools or ponds, outbuildings, patios, and yard equipment. It should also include other important items, especially known hazards such as large trees, boulders and rock outcroppings, and underground hazards like pipes, cables, and septic systems. Many localities will require that underground cable be buried at least 18 inches beneath the surface and 24 inches below a drive or walkway, so check your local coding for this information also. In fact, you may need to contact your utility company and municipal government (who may have records on where your septic system and water supply is located) to get help in locating underground utilities before you even sketch out your final plan. To avoid potentially dangerous consequences and unnecessary expenses, it is better to be forewarned than to be surprised. It would be wise also to calculate the load of your project needs. It is better to have too much power than not enough. This is mentioned here as a reminder because very often, outside power supply is run for a distance. This has a direct effect on the size of the cable required.

TOOLS & MATERIALS

Measuring tape	Rigid conduit
Pencil	Mounting straps for conduit
Safety glasses	LB connector or fitting to fit UF cable or exterior junction box
Work gloves	Underground feeder (UF) cable correctly sized for your particular project or needs
Insulated screwdrivers	Conduit sweep bend
Long-nose pliers	Conduit nipple
12-2G NM cable	Conduit bushing
Hand-held sledgehammer, as needed	Conduit compression connector
Star drill, as needed	Caulking compound
Hammer	Self-tapping screws or masonry anchors, as needed
Power drill	Cable clamps
Spade bits	Cable staples
Metal junction box

If your exterior walls are masonry, then measure from a common reference point to mark the exit location on the outside of your basement or crawl space wall. Wearing work gloves and safety glasses, use a star drill and hand-held sledgehammer to make an access hole. Avoid the top course of block on a concrete block wall, if possible. This course is often grouted solid to secure the anchors that hold the sill plate of the house in place. Otherwise be prepared for a lot of additional work. Another option to consider might be to exit through the existing wall above the foundation.