Hyderabadghar/Do it your self/Installing a Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI)

A ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) is an electrical device that detects a leakage of electrical current and reacts immediately by quickly interrupting the current flow. The leak can be caused by an accident or through equipment malfunction. GFCIs are required in certain locations specified by the NEC (Article 210-8). These locations include bathrooms, kitchens, garages, outbuildings, crawl spaces, unfinished basements, wet bar sinks, and any exterior receptacle. A good general rule to follow is that if you are working in a potentially damp or wet environment or have direct contact to earth then the receptacle you use should be GFCI-protected. If no GFCI receptacle is located nearby, then use an extension cord that has a built-in GFCI.

Fig. 1

A GFCI receptacle resembles a conventional receptacle, except that it has built-in reset and test buttons (Fig. 1).

When a ground fault occurs or a test is made, the reset button will pop out. Once a fault is eliminated or the test completed, press the button back in to reset the circuit. A GFCI can also be installed directly at the panel box, as a circuit breaker (Fig. 2). This type of ground-fault circuit interrupter has a test button only, and when tripped, the switch flips only halfway off to break the circuit. To reset the circuit, the breaker must be switched completely off, and then flipped back on again. An entire circuit will be protected by the breaker type. A GFCI receptacle is less expensive than a breaker type GFCI and has the advantage of letting you reset a circuit at the point of use. Although ground-fault circuit interrupters can be wired to protect multiple devices, they are most effective when limited to protecting a single location.

Installing a GFCI receptacle
If there is an existing receptacle at the location that you would like to protect (within six feet of your kitchen sink, for example), you can replace any existing outlet with a GFCI type. Otherwise, you may choose to add a new outlet. If this is the case, then determine the location of the new receptacle and decide on the power source, whether it will be from an existing circuit or running a new circuit from the main panel. The same amperage guidelines will apply to choosing the correctly sized GFCI to match the wire (they are available in both 15- and 20-amp sizes). Install an electrical box and pull cable from a power source to the box, being sure you are not working with any circuits or wires that are "live." If there is ever any doubt, test them first.

Fig. 2

PROJECT BASICS

Project: Moderate
Estimated Project Time: 30 minutes
Estimated Project Cost: $70.00 - $80.00
Start Tips: Turn off power to the circuit before you begin work.
Safety Tips: Be sure that you connect the power source cable wires to the LINE area of the GFCI.
Recommendation: Do-it-Yourself

TOOLS & MATERIALS

Insulated screwdriver	Cable clamp
Receptacle box (if adding a new location for the outlet)	Circuit tester
Appropriate wire connectors	Cable ripper
NM cable (if creating a new location for the outlet)	Long-nose pliers
GFCI receptacle, 15- or 20-amp size to match wire's capacity	Multipurpose tool

Fig. 3

INSTRUCTIONS

1) Connect the GFCI hot and neutral wires
Turn the power off. After installing the receptacle box, pull and rip the cable, and strip the inside wires.

The following are guidelines on how to wire the receptacle so that it is the only protected outlet on the circuit; in this case the GFCI will not protect any other outlets further along the circuit.

Splice the black hot wires from the incoming and outgoing cables, with a pigtail. On the back of the GFCI receptacle is an area that is labeled "LINE," or "LINE IN"; at this location, attach the black pigtail wire to the terminal that is labeled "HOT." Cap the splice with a wire connector. (Fig. 3)

Fig. 4

Using another wire connector, splice the white neutral cable wires and pigtail them to the back of the GFCI receptacle at the terminal labeled "WHITE" in the area that is also labeled "LINE." (Fig. 4)

Note: "LINE" or "LINE IN" on the back of the GFCI receptacle indicates that the wires from the power source are to be connected at this location. The "LOAD" area on the GFCI receptacle is for wiring connections that enable outlets further down the circuit to be protected by this GFCI. If the "LINE" connections (wires coming in from the power source) are attached at the wrong location on the GFCI, it can possibly destroy the GFCI, and will not provide protection.

Fig. 5

2) Connect the GFCI grounding wires and install the receptacle
Splice the bare-copper cable ground wires from the cables together, and then pigtail them to the green GFCI receptacle grounding screw. If the electrical box is metal, include in the splice a pigtail ground wire which connects to the ground screw on the metal box. (Fig. 5)

Install the GFCI receptacle, and then turn on the power. Using a circuit tester, test the circuit for power.

Fig. 6

3) Test the GFCI receptacle
Test the GFCI to determine if it is operational. Press the test button — the reset button should pop out. Then reset the GFCI by pressing in the reset button. (Fig. 6)