Roses 101

Roses are synonymous with love and beauty. Their blooms have inspired poets and artists to greatness. Rose gardeners are also inspired by their beauty and are devoted to their beloved plants.

Whether you are a new rose gardener or an accomplished veteran, the following guide can help better your horticultural endeavors. Keep in mind that not all rose types are cared for in the same way and that this is a general guide. If in doubt, look up your rose variety in a reliable reference book.

Selection
As with any plant, you need to consider how it will work in your landscape. If there is a specific look or design to your landscape, you must select a rose that fits that scheme. Even if you don't have a design, you still must examine your landscape to locate the best place for your new rose. When selecting a rose, consider its color, fragrance and care.

When selecting a color, make sure the new rose will be placed by plants with complementary colors. The result should make it stand out beautifully and not clash with its surroundings.

If fragrance is your driving force, sniff out antique (or heirloom) varieties since they have much stronger fragrances than newer ones. Heirloom varieties are generally hardier and easier to care for since they are grown on their own roots. These varieties are also more resistant to pests and diseases.

Planting
Be positive your chosen planting location will meet your rose's requirements for successful blooms. Most roses require at least six hours of sunlight, so start by selecting a sunny area that drains well and is protected from strong winds.

With the right space selected, work the soil and test it to make sure it is not too acidic (<6.0) or alkaline (>7.5). Neutral soil is best for roses. Consult your local extension office on how to get your soil tested. Once your report comes back, amend your soil if necessary.

Plant according to grower's specifications. Growers at Country Lane Gardens in Seattle recommend digging a hole 18 to 24 inches deep and then adding a handful of a low nitrogen fertilizer before planting a potted rose. Once in the hole, they recommend filling in halfway with soil and then watering thoroughly before adding the remaining soil.

"It is important that new roses received adequate water so they can develop their roots. Do not let a new rose dry out that first season," says Andrew Schulman of Country Lane Gardens in Seattle.

Feeding
Roses are hungry during their growing season and require fertilizer. When you notice new growth in the spring, most gardeners recommend starting your fertilizing schedule.

Scott May, a Master Gardener in St. Cloud, Minn., recommends using a fertilizer specifically for roses. "The amount of fertilizer you use often depends on your type of rose, so check your rose's requirements first. Many people like the rose spikes because they fertilize the plant for 30 to 45 days."

After you fertilize, make sure you water the plant well. Schulman offers these words of caution: "If you feed roses with a high nitrogen fertilizer, all you will get is leaves. Try a fertilizer that is high in potassium and phosphorus instead."
Schulman prescribes the following fertilizing schedule:

Don't fertilize any more or you can cause the plant to grow into the winter months harming it.

Pruning
Proper pruning means knowing when to prune, while pruning at the wrong time can mean no blossoms. So when should you cut? Repeat-blooming varieties of roses like floribundas, hybrid teas, and repeat-blooming antique roses should be pruned right before they leave dormancy. Shrub, climbing and once-blooming antique roses should be pruned immediately after they are finished blooming.

Before you begin, make sure you use sharp shears and wear leather gloves. For all roses, begin by removing dead, damaged, diseased or weak canes. As you continue to prune, you will want to keep in mind the overall shape of the plant as you work.

"For floribundas and hybrid teas," says Schulman, "you should cut the canes to 18 inches above the soil level. For repeat blooming antique roses, prune lightly and try to keep half to two-thirds of the cane. For all three types, cut ¼-inch above an outfacing bud at the same angle as the bud." It is important to prune here because rose bushes will send out new growth at the bud just below the cut.

Schulman also recommends removing old center growth to get light and air to the plant, which helps prevent disease. You should also remove a cane that crosses another and any growth thinner than a pencil.

With shrub, climbing and once-blooming antique roses, the process is different, as you never want to remove more than one-third of the plant. These plants take longer to establish and blooms only occur on growth at least one year old. If you prune too severely, you will have only leaves the following year. Instead, prune immediately after the plants have finished blooming. Prune them lightly to shape and remove poor growth, and you will have a beautiful plant with plenty of blooms the next season.

Pests and diseases
Prevention is the best solution for pests and diseases. If you give your roses the correct growing conditions, proper fertilizer and adequate water, you should have few problems. You should also select varieties that are native to or grow well in your climate. Antique roses have an advantage over newer varieties in that they are more resistant to pests and diseases.

"Many of the common problems like fungal disease, blackspot and powdery mildew are all caused by drought. By properly locating the rose, giving it good air circulation and properly spacing it, you can avoid problems," Schulman says.

When it comes to pests at Country Lane Gardens, he simply washes the Aphids off with water. If the problem is more than water can handle, then he turns to natural pesticides. "Always use a natural pesticide first. If you use an insecticidal soap, test it on a leaf first. I have discovered that these soaps can deform the foliage of some roses."

Scott May suggests incorporating plants among the roses that naturally repeal pests. "I plant chives between my roses and never have to spray," he says.

Wintering
Depending on where you live, wintering roses can be a piece of cake or a nightmare. However, with a few tips you can increase your chance of success.

Schulman advises, "If you [have] selected varieties that are hardy to your area, then you shouldn't have to do anything special to them. You can cover them with two to three inches of mulch and then remove it when the weather warms."

Shrub roses and many antique roses are among the winter-hardy varieties. However, if you live in climates that experience harsh winters or have selected varieties that are not hardy to your area, you may have to cover roses.

"If you live in an area that has extreme winter conditions, like Minnesota, you will have to bury floribunda and tea roses and then mulch over them with straw. Make sure you gently tie the canes together first. You'll have a much higher success rate wintering your roses if you try this method," May recommends.

With proper selection of hardy roses and the proper planting site, your roses will thrive and provide the beautiful, long-lasting blooms you'll love.

Antique rose varieties for beginners
• Rose de Rescht: Blooms from early summer through fall and has a bright magenta flower with a strong fragrance.

• Madam Hardy: A wonderfully delicate white rose that is very fragrant. Blooms once and requires only five hours of direct sunlight.

• Königin Von Dannemark: A pink rose with beautiful foliage. Blooms once and works well as a specimen plant or as a hedge.

• Reine Victoria: A beautifully scented rose with pink blossoms. It will remind you of the flowers on your Grandmother's teacups.

• Blush Noisette: A climbing, repeat-blooming rose with semi-double pink blossoms. Disease resistant and grows in partial shade.