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Installing Paneling

Paneling may have a slightly bad rap because some low-end products look artificial — a poor likeness of wood grain glued to a flimsy backer board. However, most paneling does not fall into this category; in fact, solid plank paneling; sheet panels of pre-finished wood veneers; and combinations of plank and veneer paneling can be quite expensive.

Plank paneling uses hardwoods such as birch, maple and oak, or softwoods such as pine, cedar or cypress. Sheet paneling, made from real wood veneers bonded to plywood, can be bought with or without a finish applied.

Choose light-colored woods (such as birch or maple) in either plank or sheet form to keep a room bright. For a traditional look, go with the darker woods. All have a subtle patina that can't be duplicated by simulated finishes.

PROJECT BASICS

Project: Moderate
Estimated Project Time: A weekend
Start Tips: Measure the circumference of your room and figure out how much paneling you will need.
Safety Tips: Wear gloves and safety goggles when cutting boards with a circular saw.
Recommendation: Do-it-Yourself

TOOLS & MATERIALS

4-ft. level	Eye protection
T-square	Gloves
Hammer	Sheet paneling
Table saw	Furring strips
Circular saw, saber saw or handsaw (to cut boards)	Panel adhesive
Saber saw or keyhole saw (to cut holes for electrical boxes)	Common nails
Clamps	Finishing nails
Scriber	Shims

Fig. 1

INSTRUCTIONS

Custom-designed, built-up panel walls give a room a touch of elegance. Start with a base layer of 1/4-inch-thick hardwood veneer panels attached to studs or furring strips. Over that base you can apply any number of raised panel designs — say, outlining a large box grid with 1x4s, subdividing them with 1x2s, and trimming with quarter-rounds and other molding profiles. But this kind of paneling project requires a lot more carpentry skill and experience than installing sheet paneling.

Installing panels
1) Use a 4-ft. level or other straightedge to check the walls for level and plumb. Mark low spots — these will need to be shimmed. (Fig. 1)

Fig. 2

2) Nail up 1x3 or 5/4 furring strips and check them for level; they provide an even nailing surface for the paneling. (Fig. 2)

Fig. 3

3) The surfaces of the furring strips should be plumb from top to bottom. Use pairs of shingle shims to fill low spots. (Fig. 3)

Fig. 4

4) Install filler strips to provide support for the panels and seams. Leave small gaps at the ends of the strips to prevent buckling. (Fig. 4)

Fig. 5

5) Set the glued panel with the bottom shimmed off the floor. Pull the panel away from the wall until the glue gets tacky. (Fig. 5)

Fig. 6

6) Remove the blocks, reset the panel, and nail it in place. Color-matched panel nails in the grooves won't be noticeable. (Fig. 6)

Fig. 7

Panel trim
Cap molding is installed at the top of wainscoting or at horizontal seams, whereas seam cover trim hides vertical joints. (Fig. 7)

Fig. 8

In addition to base trim, special panel trim pieces protect panel ends. Use round-edged case guard at windows. (Fig. 8)

Fig. 9

Like corner guard on drywall, outside corner trim covers and protects the seam where two panels meet at a corner. (Fig. 9)

Fig. 10

Almost any stock trim, including simple corner round or a beaded molding, will cover seams at inside corners. (Fig. 10)

Solid paneling
You can cover a room quickly and economically with sheet paneling, but it won't have the richness or detail of solid wood paneling. Solid hardwood paneling with inset frames is probably the most expensive, but also the most elegant, wallcovering. It is usually built around a frame of 3/4-inch-thick boards that can run up to 12 inches wide.

Many combinations of thinner panels and moldings can be used within the frame. Solid paneling also can be applied board to board.

There are many styles of interlocking planking. Knotty-pine planking is one of the most common applications, often installed over horizontal furring nailed to the stud wall.

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