Home and Garden | Repairing & Replacing Screening - Windows

Damaged window screens can sometimes be repaired; screens with major damage probably will need to be replaced.

If a fiberglass or metal screen has a small tear, repair it easily with clear silicone adhesive. Just dab it over the tear and let the glue set. Several coats may need to be applied to completely seal the hole.

Metal screening can also be "darned" with strands of scrap screening. Unravel a strand or two and, using a sewing needle, weave the strands into the undamaged screen.

For larger holes, consider applying a patch. To make a repair of this type in metal screening, first square off the hole's edges using a utility knife. Then, cut a piece of scrap screening about 2 inches larger than the damaged area. Unravel a couple of strands on each side of the patch and bend them at a 90-degree angle. Fit the patch over the opening, inserting the strands through the screening. When the patch is adequately positioned, bend the wires over to secure it.

A similar technique can be used to mend fiberglass screening. Again, square off the damaged area, cut an oversized patch from scrap material, and affix it with clear silicone glue.

PROJECT BASICS

Project: Easy
Estimated Project Time: 1/2 - 1 1/2 hours
Estimated Project Cost: $12 - $15 for materials; $25 for tools
Start Tips: To camouflage the repair, buy screening material which closely matches the original screen.
Safety Tips: Always wear gloves when using aviation snips.
Recommendation: Do-it-Yourself

TOOLS & MATERIALS

*Repairing Screening:*	Replacing Wood-Framed Screening:
Silicone adhesive	Utility knife
Screen patch (metal or fiberglass)	Putty knife
Sewing needle (with an eye large enough to accept a strand of screening)	Replacement screen
*Replacing Metal-Framed Screening:*	Heavy-duty staple gun
Slotted screwdriver (flat-bladed)	Heavy-duty staples
Combination square	Aviation snips
Aviation snips	1x2 lumber
Putty knife	1x4 lumber
Hammer	Saw
Wooden block on screening tool	Plywood
Replacement screen spline

INSTRUCTIONS

Replacing metal-framed screening
To replace a metal-framed screen, begin by laying the screen on a flat surface. Metal-framed screens are held in place by a vinyl spline that fits into a channel around the frame's perimeter. To remove the spline, insert the tip of a flat-bladed screwdriver into the channel and pry it up. Once started, the spline pulls easily out of its channel.

Fig. 1

1) Cut the screening
Separate the damaged screening from the frame. After squaring up the frame, lay a piece of replacement screening over it, and cut a slightly oversized piece with aviation snips. It generally works well to cut the screen to the same dimensions as the outside frame. (Fig. 1)

Fig. 2

2) Crease the screening
Place the new screening over the opening in the frame and, using a putty knife, crease the screening into the channel on one side of the frame. This is the edge of the screening that will be stretched first. (Fig. 2)

Fig. 3

3) Insert the spline
Next, using a hammer and wooden block or a screening tool, insert the new spline. While an assistant pulls the screening taut, drive a second spline into the opposite channel. Start either of the two remaining sides of the screen in the same way as before, then repeat the stretching process. Finish by trimming the excess screening. (Fig. 3)

Replacing wood-framed screening
There are several methods for installing screen in wood frames, but the following method is common and easy to do. The screening is held in place by staples that are driven all along the perimeter of the sash. A heavy-duty stapler and 1/4-inch staples are best for this job. Do not use a household stapler.

Remove the wood molding concealing the staples. Gently pry up each strip, using a putty knife. Be very careful—older moldings can be quite brittle. Next, remove the staples holding the screening to the frame, and then discard the old screening.

Fig. 4

1) Cut the screening
Unroll the replacement screening and cut a piece that is several inches wider and at least 12 inches longer than the frame. Fold over the top edge of the screening about 1/2 inch, then staple this hemmed double layer to the sash, working out from the center to the edges. (Fig. 4)

Fig. 5

2) Stretch the screening
To ensure adequate tension on the screening, fashion a makeshift "stretcher" using a pair of 1x2s. Cut two 1x2s as long as the window is wide, then nail one of them to a piece of plywood placed on your workbench.

Position the screen and sash so that the excess screening overlaps the nailed-down 1x2. Nail a second 1x2 to the one already in place. (Fig. 5)

Fig. 6

3) Tighten the screening
Cut a length of 1x4 lumber diagonally from corner to corner; this will yield two wedge-shaped pieces. With the wedges lying flat, insert them into the space between the 1x2s and the frame. Then tap the wedges with a hammer, alternating sides until the screening becomes taut. (Fig. 6)

Fig. 7

4) Attach the screening
Staple the bottom edge of the screening in place, again working from the center outward to each edge. For the sides, pull the screen taut and staple from the center outward, smoothing the mesh. Trim the excess screening from the frame with a utility knife, then replace the molding. (Fig. 7)